Making a PCB Using Toner Transfer Method – Part II

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Amogh Desai
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7 Comments


  1. I use successfully hydrochloric acid and hydrogen peroxide. The trick is to dilute them with enough water to keep the process working as fast as possible, but without destroying the protective layer. Try to dilute the mixture of HCl + H2O2 with same amount of water. If still too strong, add more water, if too slow, add some more H202.

    Nick

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    1. Thanks Nick for the suggestion. Let me try this on my next PCB etch and I’ll tell you how it goes !

      Reply

  2. well i used the same ferric cloride etchent. toner transfer I
    have used glossy paper and cut the pcb to size. the toner
    transfer was done with a laminating machine for uniform
    roll and heat transfer.the heating element was suitably
    modified to handle the pcb. max heat, 4 times forward
    and 4 times in reverse. but nowadays, i take a printout
    on tracing paper, give it to a screen printer and he prints
    it on copper plate, as the paint is transferred on to copper
    laminate, it can be directlly etched. the toner earlier was
    not cleaned by acetone, it forms protective layer to tracks.
    I had also used a chemical silver plating for the cleaned
    pcbs and it was good.

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  3. I personally ended up with better PCBs if the the copper class was ironed (pure heated) before I set down the artwork.
    From experience I found that this improves the transfer and speeds it up
    I once made a H- bridge motor driver with MOSFETs, the artwork was quite large. I set it down and started ironing only to realize I hadn’t pre heated it this compelled me to iron it longer and eneded up bubbling the PCB!! Not sure with FR-4 but FR-2 being the material it is…..it will bubble up between the copper and the resin board….so I always make sure to pre heat it. Cheers!

    Reply

    1. *copper clad!! Pardon my autocorrect in the last comment….hahaha…

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  4. Pls don’t mind the typos!!! Dumb autocorrect

    Reply

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